Print your Digital Photos With Color
Accuracy
or How to Print What you See on Your
Monitor
Did you buy a nice photo printer but
got discouraged by photos printing with a color cast or just strange,
unexpected colors? So now you just take your memory card to Walmart
or Target and take what they give you? Your camera shoots in 8” x
12” format but they only print 8 x 10? You can get control of the
process and print your photos the way you want. A while back I
thought of writing and posting this as a single article. But it is
somewhat complex and began to get quite long. So I decided to break
it down and post a step a week.
A little background to understand
digital printing. Everything in the digital world is 1's and 0's. So
here is a little bit of digital talk: 01001100001010100010101010. Now
I have no idea what I just said but it means something to your
computer. So if your computer just crashed I probably insulted its
mother! The point is that every color, every pixel and dot is
described by some code like that. Also every device you use - camera,
scanner, computer, monitor, printer - may have a slightly different
code for the same color. The next thing to know is that every color
displayed on your monitor is made up of mixes of just three colors of
light - red, green and blue (RGB). And every color you print is made
up of four colors of ink: cyan, magenta, yellow and black (CMYK).
Right from the beginning you can see two problem areas - different
codes, different base colors!
The first step in printing the colors
you want is a monitor that is displaying colors accurately. Monitors
do not come from the factory accurately adjusted to standardized
color settings. But any good monitor will allow you to make those
adjustments. (Here is a caveat, most laptop and iMac displays don't
have individual color controls. You could plug in an external monitor
for accurate color work.) For color accuracy the monitor you use for
preparing your photos must be calibrated to ICC (International Color
Consortium) standards. Hardware calibration is the most accurate and
can be done with a colorimeter which reads the strength of each color channel: Red, Green, & Blue. Or a spectrophotometer which reads the strength of colors at many points on the color spectrum beside Red, Green & Blue. If
these are not available, software calibration can be done. Just be
aware that, because of the way our brains process color, software
calibration is more subjective. On Macintosh computers ColorSync is
built into the monitor control panel, on Microsoft Windows systems
Windows Image Color Management (ICM) 2.0 should be in the control
panels; on Mac OS and Microsoft Windows systems if you are using an
Adobe product such as Adobe Photoshop or Photoshop Elements, Adobe
Gamma should also have been installed in your Control Panels.
Color phosphors do wear and dim over
time and not evenly so calibration should be done on a regular
schedule. Once a week, once a month, every other month, etc.
depending on how heavily you use your computer and how fussy you are.
OK, now your computer and monitor are thinking of the same color.
Some colorimeters: X-Rite®: Huey® on the low end $90, i1 Display® $176; Datacolor®: The Spyder® series of colorimeters from $90 to $250, etc.
Some spectrophotometers: X-Rite®: ColorMonki® $500, i1Basic® $1000, i1XTreme® $1500, MonacoPROFILER® $2000; Datacolor® SpyderSR® series from $340 to $600.
Next post: Printers & Papers.
Some colorimeters: X-Rite®: Huey® on the low end $90, i1 Display® $176; Datacolor®: The Spyder® series of colorimeters from $90 to $250, etc.
Some spectrophotometers: X-Rite®: ColorMonki® $500, i1Basic® $1000, i1XTreme® $1500, MonacoPROFILER® $2000; Datacolor® SpyderSR® series from $340 to $600.
Next post: Printers & Papers.
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